Porsche 993 911

Buyer's Guide

Porsche 993 911

1994–1998

Written by Zach, an independent mechanic in the Pacific Northwest. Last reviewed . Spot a mistake? Tell me.

Overview

The 993 is the last air-cooled 911, and the market knows it. Its multi-link rear suspension finally tamed the old car's tail-happy habits, and to a lot of people it's the best-looking 911 there is. You're paying collector prices, so pay for a thorough pre-purchase inspection too. Check for oil leaks, dual-mass flywheel wear, and lifter noise, and on 1996–98 cars, clogged secondary air injection ports.

Production
1995–1998
Built
~68,000 worldwide
Price range
$70,000–$400,000+
Best years
1997–1998 (Varioram, most refined)

What to Pay

Prices checked January 2026. Rough US market ranges. Location, history, and options move these a lot.

Project

$50,000–$80,000

Cars needing engine work or with significant issues. Still valuable due to air-cooled status.

Driver

$80,000–$120,000

Running and driving Carrera or Carrera 4 with some needs.

Excellent

$120,000–$180,000

Well-maintained widebody (S or 4S) with documentation.

Concours

$180,000–$500,000+

Turbo, Turbo S, GT2, or exceptional low-mileage examples. Prices are strong.

Which One to Buy

Carrera / Carrera S

1995–1998

Rear-wheel drive with 272–282 hp. The Carrera S adds the wide body and bigger wheels. The purest 993.

Desirability High

Carrera 4 / Carrera 4S

1995–1998

All-wheel drive. Heavier but more planted. The 4S combines it with the wide body and Turbo brakes.

Desirability High

Targa

1996–1998

The glass-roof Targa, with a sliding glass panel. Distinctive, but the mechanism is complex.

Desirability Medium

Turbo / Turbo S

1996–1998

Twin-turbocharged, 400–450 hp, and all-wheel drive. The last air-cooled Turbo. The Turbo S is extremely rare.

Desirability High

GT2

1996–1998

The rear-drive Turbo with 430+ hp, widebody, and no driver aids. The most extreme air-cooled 911, and priced accordingly.

Desirability High

Cabriolet

1995–1998

The full convertible. Heavier and less stiff, but popular.

Desirability Medium

Walk Away If…

  • Oil smoke indicating worn engine
  • Unknown compression/leak-down test results
  • Timing chain rattle
  • Structural rust
  • Evidence of accident damage
  • Turbo models with boost control issues
  • Missing service documentation
  • Rodent damage to wiring

Pre-Purchase Inspection

What I'd check on any 993 before buying, with a rough cost if it's bad. Print it and take it with you.

Engine (check first) 5 checks
  • Oil Leaks Check chain housings, cam covers, and case halves. Air-cooled engines weep oil but should not drip heavily. If bad: $1,000–5,000 depending on location
  • Compression and Leak-down The key test on an air-cooled engine. Should show healthy, even compression across cylinders. If bad: Engine rebuild $20,000–40,000
  • Timing Chain Tensioners Listen for chain rattle on cold start. Tensioners should be updated to latest design. If bad: $2,000–4,000
  • Varioram System 1996+ cars have Varioram. Check for proper operation—engine should have strong mid-range pull. If bad: $500–1,500
  • Turbo Condition (Turbo/GT2) Check for shaft play, boost leaks, and proper boost control. Twin K24 turbos are expensive. If bad: $5,000–10,000
Transmission & Drivetrain 4 checks
  • G50 Manual Transmission Test all gears including reverse. Check for popping out of gear. Synchros can wear. If bad: $2,000–5,000 for rebuild
  • Tiptronic (if equipped) Check for smooth shifting and proper kickdown. Valve body issues can develop. If bad: $2,000–5,000
  • Clutch Should engage smoothly mid-pedal. Dual-mass flywheel is expensive to replace. If bad: $3,000–5,000
  • Limited-Slip Differential Test for proper engagement in turns. LSD is desirable option. If bad: $1,500–3,000
Suspension & Body 4 checks
  • Multilink Rear Suspension The 993's sophisticated rear suspension has many bushings and joints that wear. If bad: $1,500–3,500
  • Front Struts and Bushings Check for leaking struts and worn bushings causing clunks. If bad: $1,000–2,000
  • Rust Inspection Check rockers, floor pans, and battery area. Less common but still possible. If bad: $2,000–10,000+
  • Targa Mechanism If Targa, check glass roof operation and seals for leaks. If bad: $1,000–3,000
Electrical 3 checks
  • Wiring Condition Biodegradable wire sheathing attracts rodents. Check for damage throughout car. If bad: $1,000–5,000
  • DME Relay Common failure point causing no-start. Easy and cheap fix. If bad: $50–100
  • Climate Control HVAC system is complex. Test all functions. If bad: $500–2,000

Worth Paying Extra For

  • Manual transmission
  • Complete service documentation
  • Recent compression/leak-down test with good results
  • Widebody (S or 4S) for best looks and value
  • Dry-climate car without rust
  • Original paint and interior
  • Sport seats and limited-slip differential
  • Complete tool kit and documentation

Running Costs

Insurance
$2,000–4,000/year
Annual maintenance
$3,000–6,000 for regular service
Common repairs
$2,000–5,000/year typical
Fuel economy
16–22 MPG

Before You Buy

  • The 993 is the most collectible modern 911, and prices reflect it.
  • Wide-body Carrera S and 4S cars sell at a significant premium.
  • The Varioram engines (1996–98) have more mid-range power.
  • Manual cars are strongly preferred over Tiptronic.
  • Turbo and GT2 prices have reached supercar territory.
  • Budget for a pre-purchase inspection by a specialist, with a leak-down test.
  • Rennlist has a deep 993 community.
  • Parts are available, but they're expensive.
  • A well-maintained 993 has held its value better than almost anything.
  • It's the last air-cooled 911, and that matters to collectors.

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