Porsche 924

Buyer's Guide

Porsche 924

1976–1988

Overview

The 924 is the Porsche people still underrate. Engine up front, gearbox at the back, close to 50/50 balance, and a chassis that's better than its Audi-sourced 2.0L four deserves. The Turbo (931) fixes the power problem, and the late 924S gets the 944's 2.5L in the slimmer body, which makes it the one I'd look for. They're cheap to buy, but parts for the early cars are getting scarcer. Find one with a sound body and a recent timing belt and you have the cheapest way into a proper Porsche chassis.

Production
1976–1988
Built
~150,000 worldwide
Price range
$5,000–$35,000+
Best years
1986–1988 924S (944 engine)

What to Pay

Prices checked January 2026. Rough US market ranges. Location, history, and options move these a lot.

Project

$2,000–$6,000

Non-running or rusty cars. Base 924s are cheap but require work.

Driver

$6,000–$15,000

Running and driving examples. 924S models command higher prices.

Excellent

$15,000–$25,000

Well-maintained 924 Turbo or pristine 924S examples.

Concours

$25,000–$50,000+

Low-mileage Turbo or rare Carrera GT/GTS variants. Museum quality.

Which One to Buy

924 (Audi engine)

1976–1985

The original, with an Audi-sourced 2.0L four and K-Jetronic injection: 95–110 hp depending on market and year. Light and well balanced, if not quick.

Desirability Low

924 Turbo (931)

1979–1982

The 2.0L turbo, with the NACA duct and vented nose. About 143 hp in US trim and up to 177 hp in Europe. A proper sports car, but its turbo-specific parts are getting scarce.

Desirability High

924 Carrera GT / GTR / GTS

1980–1981

The homologation specials, with 210–375 hp. Extremely rare and valuable, and most were built to race.

Desirability High

924S

1986–1988

The 944's 2.5L four in the 924 body: 147–160 hp. The best of both worlds, and the one I'd look for.

Desirability High

Walk Away If…

  • Severe rust in structural areas (rockers, floor pans)
  • No record of the last timing belt on any 924
  • Turbo cars with shaft play or excessive smoke
  • Non-functional CIS fuel injection
  • Evidence of overheating or head gasket failure
  • Missing or heavily modified emissions equipment
  • Amateur electrical modifications

Pre-Purchase Inspection

What I'd check on any 924 before buying, with a rough cost if it's bad. Print it and take it with you.

Engine (check first) 5 checks
  • Timing Belt (924S only) The 924S uses the 944's 2.5L engine with timing belt—same maintenance requirements as 944. If bad: $1,500–3,000 for service
  • Timing Chain (Audi engine) Audi-derived engine uses a timing chain. Listen for rattle indicating chain stretch. If bad: $800–1,500
  • Head Gasket Early 924s can develop head gasket issues. Check for coolant in oil or overheating. If bad: $800–1,500
  • Turbo Condition (931) Check for shaft play, oil smoke, and boost leaks. Turbo rebuilds are expensive. If bad: $1,500–3,000
  • Oil Leaks Check valve cover, rear main seal, and oil pan. Common with age. If bad: $200–600
Clutch & Transaxle 3 checks
  • Clutch Condition Test clutch engagement—should be smooth and grab mid-pedal. If bad: $1,200–2,000
  • Torque Tube Flex Disc Rubber flex disc connecting engine to torque tube wears out. Check for cracks. If bad: $150–300
  • Transaxle Test every gear and listen for grinding or a notchy engagement. The 924 transaxle itself is tough. If bad: $1,500–3,000
Body & Rust 4 checks
  • Rocker Panels Primary rust area. Check inside and out for rust-through. If bad: $800–2,000 per side
  • Floor Pans Check under carpets for rust, especially driver's footwell. If bad: $800–2,000
  • Hatch Area Hatch struts mount to fiberglass—check for cracks. Inspect rear quarters. If bad: $300–800
  • Battery Box Located in the engine bay—acid damage is common. If bad: $300–600
Electrical 3 checks
  • DME Relay Common failure point causing no-start. Easy and cheap to replace. If bad: $30–60
  • CIS System (early cars) Continuous Injection System can be finicky. Check fuel distributor operation. If bad: $300–800
  • Wiring Condition Check for brittle insulation, especially in engine bay. If bad: $200–600

Worth Paying Extra For

  • 924S models with 944 engine for best value
  • 924 Turbo for performance enthusiasts
  • Documented service history
  • Rust-free body
  • Working air conditioning
  • A manual (automatics were offered, but they're slower and less desirable)
  • Original interior in good condition
  • Complete tool kit

Running Costs

Insurance
$400–800/year (classic car insurance available)
Annual maintenance
$800–1,500 for regular service
Common repairs
$400–1,000/year typical
Fuel economy
24–30 MPG

Before You Buy

  • The 924S is the smart buy: 944 mechanicals for less money.
  • Base 924s are cheap and plentiful, but the 2.0L is slow.
  • 924 Turbo parts are harder to find than 944 Turbo parts.
  • The 924 shares its basic chassis with the 944, and it handles beautifully.
  • A lot of 924-specific trim is getting hard to find.
  • A 924 is a good way into the transaxle cars if a 944 is out of budget.
  • Rennlist and 924Board.org both have strong technical sections.
  • These are simple cars next to a modern Porsche, which makes them good to learn on.

Own a 924?

Track it in My Garage

Add your car and you get a 924 service schedule with intervals already filled in, a restoration tracker organized by system, and a log of every job and what it cost. It's free, and it's the same on your phone and your laptop.